"Why limit yourself...?" - lunch at Giggling Squid

Beginning with a venue in Brighton in 2009, and then onto Hove (which was the first to be named Giggling Squid, actually), the likeable chain of Thai restaurants also has sites in Chichester and Horsham.

During the recent Indian Summer we enjoyed a Thai-Sunday in Hove, at the Church Street branch.

The two-storey building is on the cosy side of snug but is bright and airy in the daylight hours, and nicely lit for the night owls.

Co-founder Pranee Laurillard masterminds the interiors of the restaurants and Hove’s Giggling Squid is pleasantly painted in a posh peppermint colour.

But there’s no airs and graces in the atmos, which is comfortable and greatly aided by genuinely warm, and wonderfully smiley service.

The easy ambience became all the more agreeable with the arrival of the well-presented sharing platter – the no-brainer starter choice since Thai-m immemorial, or at least since Brits started plunging things into pots of sweet chilli sauce.

An attractive basket of plenty was filled with strips of hand-cut pork grilled on skewers, plump Thai chicken wings, artfully arranged halves of vegetable spring rolls, a trio of dipping sauces, and, best of all, a cone of salt and pepper squid – perfectly cooked cephalopods in a crispy, well seasoned coating.

The sweet jicama salad also seemed to good to ignore, so our not inconsiderable first course was further extended by delicately flavoured jicama (a crunchy sweet-ish potato), star fruit, roasted coconut and tofu croutons, a sweet sauce and plenty of fresh mint and coriander.

Our fresh, herb-heavy first courses were no outliers, because each plate, bowl and basket of food featured a good serving of leaves, radishes, chillies, roasted garlic, ginger, and crunchy veg, even the sweet chilli sauce had a decent smattering of shallots.

This trend continued with our mains, including the superbly named and oh-so tender Chubby Cheek Pork, which in addition to being previously bathed in ginger root, pepper and palm sugar, was served with long curls of excellent sweetly pickled carrot and courgette.

My Royal Fishing Boat Curry featured a guard of honour of fresh lemongrass and I’m sure would encourage many many more people into the fishing industry if it meant they could regularly partake in this splendid stately dish.

A salmon steak, mussels, prawns and squid all vied for attention in a mellow, delicately spiced, uncharacteristically thick sauce, which seemed a departure from the more recognisable, thinner coconut milk Thai curries.

Morning Glory (water spinach) provided some tasty greenery, with added garlic bite, and a fruity 2020 Walt Reisling was the perfect wine for the robust flavours and spices.

The pudding menu asked: “Why limit yourself when you can have it all?”. Perhaps not the most sensible maxim to live your life by but in the context of the Sweet Heavens Above Trio it was sage advice.

A salted caramel soufflé, mini melting heart chocolate dessert and pineapple and coconut finger looked great on the plate and an indulgent barnstorming finish for diners who would rather not ’limit themselves’ in the dessert department.

The black sesame ice cream was a far more unassuming affair. Its subtle flavours seemed to not want to unduly impose themselves on the taste-buds but ultimately, just like the experience of a long lunch at Giggling Squid, left a good impression.

If you’re considering a daytime visit there’s an excellent value two-course menu from £9.50, and for the rest of this month (October 2022) Brighton and Hove’s students can take advantage of another good deal.

The Pad Thai & TRIP Pit-Stop Bundle for One consists of the Giggling Pad Thai and Trip CBD Infused Drink. Choose from Elderflower and Mint, Peach and Ginger, or Lemon and Basil, available via delivery from £12.99.

To find out more visit www.gigglingsquid.com/